Electric Bicycle Motor Kits A Real Letter with Real Questions from A Real
Customer
Question:
I’m very intrigued by this system. I’m an EE and I’d like to take a look at the detailed specs. Is there a website I can look at? I’m not finding any information online about the Pegasus.
Doug
From: Dalesbest4bikes@aol.com Subject: (no subject) Date: Friday, February 27, 2009, 5:51 PM
Yes, there is some more information and maybe a little better description. I also sell the Wilderness Energy Kit which I have had very good luck with. I would recommend this kit to anyone but I am always looking for upgrades. I have been working on this new system for about 2 years, a lot of trial and a lot of error. There are still some things I would have liked to do and maybe will in the future, but right now I feel this is the best value on the market. Thanks for your interest, Dale
Http://www.Pegasuspowersystems.com
Question
Okay, that is a little better but still kinda short of the hardcore technical details us EE’s like to see. I’ll just ask some questions outright.
From: Dalesbest4bikes@aol.com
Subject: (no subject) Date: Friday, February 27, 2009, 6:32 PM
Good, I’ll see if I can get you some answers
1) Brushless or brushed motor? Does it pull from a dead stop or does it require pedaling to get moving? (I’m aware pedaling is highly recommended for either.) (True) If brushed, are the brushes pretty easy to replace? How about the bearings? Brushless and you can start from a dead stop; it has a lot of torque. The bearings are sealed and I haven’t had a problem yet
2) How many amps is the charger rated for? Most of the components seem pretty reasonably priced but the charger seems rather steep. I’d probably want an extra one to keep at work to charge the battery for the ride home. But I think I could find a perfectly good one (especially for SLA’s) for less than $70. The charger is 1.8 amps; the second one would cost you $42.00
3) Is there any option for a LiPo or Li-Ion battery? Any way to package some in that battery case? I don’t have the LiPo, I haven’t been convinced of their value yet. I think that they are pretty good but I am waiting for the price to come down a lot. I ‘m still searching. It’s my impression that they are considerably smaller and would fit in the case.
4) How much juice does the headlight draw? Do you know what kind of LED’s it uses? If it’s not really state-of-the-art I might want to go with a stand-alone unit. I have never tested the currant draw (Good idea I will soon) I don’t think that they could be considered state of the art, I do like the battery indicator that is built in and the horn with the separate switch for each.
5) Who manufactures it? Assuming it’s a Chinese factory, is it a reputable one? (I have a lot of experience with Chinese mfrs so I’m not opposed to them, just the lousy ones). Is the build quality decent, and are replacement parts available?
I have a broker that does all of the buying for me, he is Chinese and has always done a good job for me. We went through 7 different motors before we decided on this one. It was built to my physical specs from 7″ diameter to 10″ dia. 3″ wide, instead 3 1/2″. I haven’t had a bad one yet out of over 160 sold. There are several different manufacturers for everything, the battery and controller case, the controller the light, brake handles etc. My next go around, probably 6 to 8 months, I will have a reconfigured case, a little wider, a little shorter and the controller housing a little larger. I am still looking for a beefier wheel, thicker spokes and maybe a double walled rim. They are out there but so far the pricing is prohibitive. All replacement parts are available, if I should have to rob something from a kit, I will, and replace them later. This is what I have had to do with the Wilderness kit. Well, you know all the right questions and I hope I have helped.
Thanks again, Dale
Question:
Dale,
It sounds from your answers (particularly to my last question) that this is your design. Is that true? Congratulations if so, it really does look like a winner, clearly better than the WE version that I’ve been looking at. My favorite feature is the quick-removal battery case….I have about a 20-mile commute to work, and I’d have to recharge at work for the ride home, which I could easily do with your system. Pop the battery off, take it inside to charge, pop it back on when I leave. Love that feature! Or, I could just carry a charged second battery with me for the ride home…but then the first one would sit uncharged all day. That’s really my main interest in the LiPo/Li-Ion battery technology. SLA’s just don’t have as long a lifetime, especially if they’re not treated well (recharged immediately after discharge). Deep discharges also reduce their life pretty fast.
I’ve been using lithium batteries, both primary and rechargeable, for some time in my work as an EE and I’ve come to really appreciate their size/capacity ratio and their tolerance for charging and discharging multiple times. As long as you don’t overcharge or over-discharge them they’re fine for a long time.
Nice controller design if it’s a brushless motor but works from a dead stop. I’m guessing it must use Hall effect sensors rather than pickup coils. Good point about the battery meter. I’m assuming it’s just a voltmeter? I was toying with making my own voltmeter/current meter which would monitor current draw/charge as well as voltage. Probably the voltmeter alone would be fine though. Since I’d use mine to commute, I’d need to carry my working clothes.
Is the top of the battery case flat enough to strap stuff onto? Having the rack is nice, it would be nice not to lose it with the battery in place. Are there any bicycles in particular you recommend for outfitting? I have an old Trek 1100 road bike but I’m thinking about getting a more rugged mountain bike/hybrid kind of thing for the electric retrofit. I’m getting a bit too old (and a bit too out of shape!) to be bent over the bars like that for long. Thanks for the patience, but you know us engineers. We want to know every detail before we commit!
Doug
From: Dalesbest4bikes@aol.com
Subject: (no subject) Date: Friday, February 27, 2009, 6:32 PM
Doug,
The battery case is pretty flat and I don’t see any reason for not throwing on some saddle bags or even a back pack over them. You might consider even lacing or hooking to the battery handles. If not, it has a pretty strong rack to hook up to. About the spare battery pack, that would be a little heavy to carry with you. You could carry the charger in you bag and not have to purchase another one.
Thanks for all your questions, I do enjoy answering them, when I am able.
Dale
From: Dalesbest4bikes@aol.com Subject: (One of your questions I forgot to answer) Date: Sat, 2/28/09 4:30 PM
Doug, One of your questions that I forgot to answer. If you decide to buy a new bike, a couple of things that I think are important. A good strong frame that is comfortable for you. NO ALUMINUM FORKS Get the highest gear ratio available. With a single speed, your motor will be taking you faster than you can pedal and the more you pedal the more distance and speed you will get. Pedaling with the motor is so much easier even in the highest gear.
Dale
Question
Dale,
Why no aluminum forks? Is it a clearance problem or are there structural issues? I was looking at Montague’s MX: http://www.montagueco.com/bikes/mx-folding-bike.html which does have an aluminum fork. If it’s a real problem I suppose I’d go with the next model down, the CX. Doug
From: Dalesbest4bikes@aol.com Subject: (no subject) Date: Friday, February 27, 2009, 6:32 PM
Doug, I have had a few problems with Aluminum forks breaking. Particularly those with a welded on tab that have the slots for the axle. The tab breaks off of the fork where it is welded. I have had two break locally and two reports from web sales.
Dale
Filed under: bike commute, bikes, Electric Bicycles, Green, People, recreation, technology | Comments Off

What does it all mean? There is a misconception of what watts do for you. Some people think that the higher the watts, the faster you will go or the farther you will go. Basically, your voltage, amperage and efficiency (quality) determine your speed and distance between charges.